Tallow vs Lanolin vs Emu Oil: Which Is Best for Your Skin?

In 1882 a German pharmacologist named Oscar Liebreich patented a method for purifying the greasy wax that coats sheep's wool, and gave the result a name: lanolin. He was hardly the first to notice it. Greek and Roman physicians wrote about a wool grease they called oesypum nearly two thousand years earlier. On the other side of the world, Aboriginal Australians had long been rendering emu fat and rubbing it into skin. And beef tallow, the humblest of the three, sat in kitchens and dairies everywhere, softening hands that had worked all winter.

All three are animal fats, and all three are having a moment. They behave quite differently on skin, though, and knowing those differences makes choosing between them straightforward.

What I use every night

Oil and Balm set. Dew Drops, made on emu oil, and the Earth Tallow Balm, made on grass-fed tallow. The oil sinks in and the balm holds it there.

Have a look

Tallow, the familiar fat

Tallow is the purified fat of cattle, usually the firm suet from around the kidneys. Once rendered and cleaned it is pale, close to odourless, solid in the jar and melting the moment it meets warm skin. It is made mostly of oleic, palmitic and stearic acids, and those fatty acids overlap generously with the oily film your own skin produces. Your skin's barrier is held together by a mortar of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, and a fat that resembles what is already there tends to settle in comfortably, softening the surface and slowing the water loss that leaves skin feeling tight.

Fat from grass-fed cattle carries more omega-3 fatty acids, conjugated linoleic acid and carotenoids than fat from grain-fed cattle, which is why I only use Australian grass-fed tallow. It makes an excellent everyday moisturiser for face and body, and you can read more in what is tallow balm.

Lanolin, the heavyweight

Lanolin is the wax sheep secrete to waterproof their fleece. Chemically it is quite different from tallow, made largely of wax esters, sterols and fatty alcohols, and it is notably rich in cholesterol. It is thick, sticky and very occlusive, sitting on the skin and holding moisture beneath it. That makes it a favourite for cracked heels, chapped lips and very dry hands, and many breastfeeding mothers know it well. For daily use across the whole face, most people find it too heavy.

It is also a recognised contact allergen. A review of the research found that reactions are uncommon in the general population but noticeably more frequent among people whose skin is already irritated or broken. If wool makes you itch, patch test anything containing lanolin before you use it.

Emu oil, the light layer

Emu oil is rendered from the fat of farmed emus. It is liquid at room temperature and absorbs remarkably quickly, leaving very little on the surface. It is rich in oleic acid and also contains linoleic acid. In a small double-blind pilot study, people who used emu oil rated its moisturising and texture qualities more highly than mineral oil, though the study was tiny and needs repeating before anyone draws grand conclusions.

Its lightness is its gift. It sinks in fast and carries other fat-soluble plant compounds with it, which is why I chose it as the base of Dew Drops, infused with frankincense, goji berry and calendula.

Side by side

A word on comedogenic ratings

You will often see these three fats given a neat number out of five for how likely they are to clog pores. Most of those numbers trace back to tests done on rabbit ears in the 1970s and 1980s, using pure ingredients at strengths nobody puts on their face. They are a rough hint at best. How a finished product behaves on your own skin tells you far more, which is why patch testing for a couple of weeks is worth the patience.

How I use them together

Tallow is the heart of every moisturiser I make. Emu oil is the base of Dew Drops. I leave lanolin out, partly because it is too heavy for a daily face product and partly because of the allergy risk. My own evening routine uses both: three or four drops of Dew Drops pressed into damp skin, then the Earth Tallow Balm over the top. The oil sinks in and the balm holds it there. The two come together in the Oil and Balm set.

Which one should you choose?

For an everyday moisturiser, tallow. Start with the Earth Tallow Balm, or the Scent-Free Tallow Balm if you prefer no fragrance.

For lips, heels or hands that are cracked and very dry, lanolin is a reasonable spot treatment, provided wool doesn't bother you.

For something light, emu oil on its own, or layered under a balm.

If you're still unsure, have a look at which DAEAR product is right for me, or email me at contact@daear.com.au.

Ayla, holistic health coach and founder of DAEAR

Keep reading

• What is tallow balm? An honest guide
• How to choose the best tallow moisturiser for your face
• How to use tallow balm: a simple three-step routine

This article is general information only and is not nutritional or medical advice. Patch test any new skincare first. If you have a skin condition, a known allergy, or you are pregnant or breastfeeding, please speak with your GP, midwife or a dermatologist before using a new product.

Research referred to

• Feingold KR, Elias PM. Role of lipids in the formation and maintenance of the cutaneous permeability barrier. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta. 2014;1841(3):280-294.
• Picardo M, Ottaviani M, Camera E, Mastrofrancesco A. Sebaceous gland lipids. Dermato-Endocrinology. 2009;1(2):68-71.
• Daley CA et al. A review of fatty acid profiles and antioxidant content in grass-fed and grain-fed beef. Nutrition Journal. 2010;9:10.
• Lee B, Warshaw E. Lanolin allergy: history, epidemiology, responsible allergens, and management. Dermatitis. 2008;19(2):63-72.
• Zemtsov A et al. Moisturizing and cosmetic properties of emu oil: a pilot double blind study. Australasian Journal of Dermatology. 1996;37(3):159-161.
• Kligman AM, Mills OH. Acne cosmetica. Archives of Dermatology. 1972;106(6):843-850.